On train, old woman (speaks no English) won't let us put our bags on the rack. Nice bloke (Mimo) who speaks some English helped us. Six in the carriage, which is small and hot. Bloody old couple up all night, after Mimo practises his English on us until late ("What do you think of Princess Di?" again).

Old woman keeps stroking my arm and trying to talk Italian at us. Manage to communicate a little, mostly "shut up and let me sleep". Constant getting up and going for wanders all night despite rest of train being asleep, pointlessly waking us up. Despite heat, they wanted bloody windows closed. Opened blinds at every station - why?! Dead knackered and annoyed by morning.

They left us 7am, we slept till 9.30am. Exhausted. Got off 9.30am, bought ferry ticket, discovered lack of free tickets scam. This occurs whereby all the guidebooks talk about the free ferry, and everyone goes to Brindisi, which normally one would avoid. Upon arrival, the ferry agents shrug and say maybe they can find us a deck passage one day but can't be specific about when. Exasperated travellers, most of whom have had a crap night train previously, pay up for seats just to get out of the place and not waste time. Whilst one is waiting for the boat, one is then fleeced by everything from supermarkets to the tourist office. Americans getting ripped off everywhere. Changed money etc., walked to port, lunch by big fountains. Very hot.

Port 1pm, waited all afternoon. Phoned home, failed to get ferry info or accomodation in Athens. Boring but nicely quiet. Crap dinner in book recommended restaurant, which we think may have changed hands. Lots of people waiting for boat, all with different info on departure.

Finally left 9:30pm. Friends with 3 Americans, 2 Australians and a Canadian. Also French couple on boat were useful, thanks to my languages. Slept 11pm, woke up 12:30am to find all deck passengers nicking the seats. Irritating. Finally sorted ourselves out and slept.