Wake up 10am to find deck passengers gone (stopped en route). Find out we're not due in until 2pm - we expected around midday. General worry amongst backpackers where to stay. Spend most of morning with Chris (Canadian guy, has maple leaf on rucksack, as Lets' Go predicted, and dislikes Americans).

Big group go to station on arrival - around 15. One group calls hotel and get room - others call and it's full. Chris, us and a girl (Andrea, American) team up and decide to share a room. She has a phone number to call, recommended by a friend. Book room as do American group. Australian girls disappear in someone's van. Italians go to their hotel. Hotel will send someone to meet us from train - sounds too good to be true? Suspicious.

Train rickety and slow. See Corinth Canal briefly, and a forest fire. Arrive Athens 8pm. American girl meets us on train from hostel. Several "runners" and lots staying. Walk to hostel - nervous despite reassurances.

Hostel okay, if a little dirty. Go out for dinner then ice cream and walk back, with Chris and Andrea. Sleep midnight, worried about security. It's nice to feel that we're really getting some distance into the trip now, and we're looking forward to the islands.