The alarm went off at 6am for an 8am ferry. We crept out and got a 6.45am bus to the port. We arrived in Naxos at 10.30am, having gone via Ios. There were lots of accommodation hawkers, but with two Canadians we found the Tourist Office. Someone walked us up to a hotel mentioned by Let's Go. It's a steep hill, but a great view over the sea. The hotel is reasonable and we get a cheap upgrade to an en-suite double for £12. We change some money and buy ferry tickets to Turkey via Samos, parting with £50, with which I am not happy. We estimate this week's travel to be

[Us at what passes for a beach at Naxos Town.]

about £100 each, as we still have to pay port tax, a visa fee, and a bus to Istanbul.

We sorted out the itinerary and rang home after a traditional Greek lunch of pizza. We walked up to the castle on the hill, which took us an hour to find. It wasn't exactly impressive, being just tiny ruins, but the streets surrounding it were scenic and the views out to sea fantastic. The whole town is nice, with lots of quiet, winding streets like a maze, apparently to confuse invaders. We go back to the hostel for a rest at 5pm,

[The remains of the unfinished Temple of Apollo on Naxos.]

Having showered and cooled down, we go for a walk to see the sunset through Apollo's Arch - a temple built in 600BC but which was never finished. We walk down a shingle beach and along a causeway, which most people feel the need to run down in case they get wet. Wimps. The sea breeze and spray are refreshing, and the views gorgeous. There's a lot of people around, but it adds to the atmosphere, Afterwards, we walk into town for dinner in a recommended restaurant. It's pretty nice and Iain grudgingly admits to it being a bit Greek. Much to his disgust, I hate Greek yogurt. It's good value - wine and three courses for £12 between us. We walk back for an early night. We try to play Chinese Chess, which Iain's been

[The traditional picture; sunset through the arch.]

enthusiastic about for days, but I'm too tired. I have a restless night with insect bites, which Iain is kind enough to get up at 3am to put cream on for me.

We're feeling a bit better about life now, especially having Turkey tickets, which has been a worry. Both glad we haven't given up.