We got up at a reasonable time and had the hostel breakfast, which was £1 each and definitely not designed for vegetarians. Bread again. Got the metro to the centre and bought a proper map - one without half the street names obscured by hostel names. I decided I was hungry and so bought some McDonald's chips. Iain, having claimed he wasn't hungry (since he ate breakfast), bought a burger and nicked my chips. The alleged quarter pounder has definitely shrunk.

[The Astronomical Clock in Prague doing its funky thing.]

We walked along Wenceslas Square (Vaclavski Namesti), which is actually a main road, towards the river Vltava. It's dead impressively wide, with a museum at the top. Lots of dodgy, cheap CD shops, which we browse, despite it already being nearly lunchtime. Iain buys a few, about £6 each. Prague seems to specialise in 60s music and 90s dance, with little else. We eventually make it to the end of the street, window shopping most the way, with the intention of returning later. We walk past a vegetarian restaurant, where Iain magnanimously offers to eat lunch (after I plead). We walk through the old town, seeing lots of beer mug shops and wondering how many more we need to buy. We wander into a square, where there are lots of people hanging round, looking up. We realise this is a clock moment, and indeed the Astronomical Clock on the old town hall does its stuff. Less stuff than Munich but no less silly. Crowd goes "ooh" and we laugh. Walk through the square and Iain gets excited by a blacksmith doing stuff. I get bored and find a bloke making enormous candles. We decide to return later and get one.

[Jazz band on the Charles Bridge in Prague.]

The streets are getting very crowded, as it's peak tourist area. We walk towards the river, and Charles Bridge, which has scenic views. It also has lots of street artists and a funky jazz band. We spot some rowing boats for hire and decide to investigate. They leave from an island and only cost a quid for an hour. Pedaloes are more expensive and we decide to brave rowing, despite the big boats and weirs. We share rowing for a while and get bored and hungry for lunch.

[Iain being useful in a boat.]

Another weird vegetarian restaurant - this time self service and the food is weighed. Iain doesn't recognise most of the food, let alone want it. It's okay, but the vegetables are served cold, which is a surprise. Peach juice is lovely, and I appreciate the amount of choice I get, whilst Iain bemoans the lack of meat.

Outside the restaurant we happen upon the St Michael's Mystery, a new show recommended by Lonely Planet. It's at a reduced price, so we decide to try it. Looks quite scary but I feel brave until we go inside (I'm petrified of the dark). Supposedly "Kafka-esque". I don't recall Kafka being that frightening. I spent most of it with my eyes closed, clutching Iain as it was dark

[View across to the river to the Castle district in Prague.]

and worrying. Lots of weird scenes as we walk through, then a lift which throws us around. I look so terrified when the doors open that a bunch of German tourists laugh at me. Film about Prague's history is good, though in Czech. Excellent, though perhaps excessive use of technology.

We buy ice creams an go shopping for candles and beer mugs. Since we're tired we decide to head back early. We wanted to go to a jazz club, but only have dinner instead. We take another Let's Go recommendation. Excellent local food, and the place has few tourists. It serves boar and venison, both for under £3. I get spaghetti. The place has quite a Bavarian feel to it. Iain finally finds a beer he likes. I like the Baileys being lower than uni prices. I also like the pancakes I have for dessert. By the time we finish it's 10pm. We walk towards the jazz club, but as Let's Go says the area is dodgy, we decide to give it a miss and go home.